Cages for Guinea Pigs

Size 
Guinea pigs, being social creatures, do best kept in groups of two or more, but most readily available commercial cages are not large enough to house a pair of pigs. The "old" guideline of 2 square feet per guinea pig is considered out-of-date and cramped by many owners. Cavycages.com recommends 7.5 square feet for a single guinea pig and 10.5 feet for a pair. Even at that, if you can provide a bigger cage, your guinea pigs will benefit from the extra space. In many cases, a home made cage provides ample space inexpensively and you can make quite creative cages easily. These are usually a better choice than a cramped commercial guinea pig cage (more on home made cage ideas below).

Cage Style
Cages with wire floors or wire ramps must be avoided, but otherwise guinea pigs are not too demanding in what sort of cage they need. Cages with ramps and low plastic shelves or ledges provide some added interest for the guinea pig, but be careful they do not take away needed floor space for running laps. The spacing between the bars can be up to one inch for adults. Some owners have come up with very creative solutions to the problem of providing large enough housing. The good thing about guinea pigs is that they are fairly large and not all that big on climbing or chewing, and are not likely to climb or jump over a wall that is reasonable height (18 inches should contain most pigs). Several examples of clever cage solutions can be found on on the sites listed on "Top Sites with Home Made Guinea Pig Cage Ideas." The photos illustrate how a little creativity can go a long way to providing great guinea pig enclosures, especially for groups of guinea pigs if you have enough room. The "Cubes and Coroplast" style of cage has become very popular. Stay away from most of the cages marketed for guinea pigs as they are terribly small. There are really only a few commercial cages that approach a good cage size for guinea pigs; see "Top Guinea Pig Cages" for a selection of larger cages you can purchase online.

Bedding
For bedding avoid cedar shavings and ideally pine as well. Aspen shavings are an acceptable choice, as is hay (a layer of paper underneath will help with absorbency). The newer recycled paper beddings are a good choice too, as are numerous other new types of pet-safe bedding and litter being made now. See "Top Ten Alternatives to Cedar Shavings" for more information and links to bedding manufacturers.

Nest Box
A nest box or hiding place is a necessity - an overturned plastic tub or pail, or a cardboard box are fine (the cardboard box can just be discarded if soiled and replaced). Large diameter PVC pipes (with thick walls) make good tunnels and hides too.

Toys
Toys such should be added for interest. Paper bags make good toys/hides, and crumpled paper, cardboard boxes, balls, wood blocks, hard plastic cat and rabbit toys, fleece tunnels, small fleece blankets, willow rabbit toys, and hanging bird toys might also interest your guinea pigs. Just make sure there are no small parts that might come off or get chewed off and swallowed.

Wheels and exercise balls are not recommended; many experts believe that guinea pig bodies are not designed for this kind of exercise and the risk of injury is too great. Try to provide exercise using other means.

Food Dishes and Water Bottle
For a food bowl, a heavy ceramic bowl is a good choice. To keep a good supply of clean water, use a water bottle with a steel spout and ball, rather than a water bowl. Keep in mind that guinea pigs tend to drink a lot (and some "play" with the bottles) so keep an eye on their water supply throughout the day and replenish as necessary. A small hay hopper can be added to keep a supply of clean hay for the guinea pigs to nibble.

The cage will likely need to be cleaned weekly or more often.

Top 10 beddings for Guinea Pigs

1. CareFRESH Ultra

CareFRESH, manufactured from 100% wood pulp fiber, is a light weight, fluffy bedding. The Ultra version makes a great bedding; it is not very dusty (less so than original CareFresh) and it is very absorbent and soft. CareFresh Ultra is also more attractive than its original grey counterpart (Ultra is white but can also be found in colorful versions too). It is quite expensive but is my favorite pet bedding.

2. Yesterday's News

Made from recycled newspaper, Yesterday's News was first marketed as a cat litter and is now available in a softer, looser pellet designed as bedding, as well as specific ferret and rabbit litter. Yesterday's News is very absorbent and not very dusty so works great to keep odors down and it is also quite economical. However, on the down side it not very soft as bedding and it isn't all that attractive. I use the Cat Litter "Softer Texture" version, which is quite similar to the pet bedding in texture but less expensive than the pet bedding version where I shop.

3. Sun Seed Fresh World Bedding

Fresh World Bedding is made from recycled newspapers and magazines, with added baking soda for odor control. It has a slightly looser, softer texture than some other pelleted beddings, but is still very absorbent, has good odor control, and is not dusty. It comes as a basic grey with colored flecks in large packages, and colors (purple, pink) in smaller packages. The larger package is quite economical. Also biodegradable and eco-friendly.

4.  Kaytee Soft Sorbent

 

Kaytee Soft Sorbent is quite unique in it's texture -- it is comprised of roundish soft pellets made from wood fiber. It is very light and quite absorbent, and decent at odor control. I like the texture and the fact it is so light, but it is easy for animals to kick out of their cages because it is so light. There was also a big variation in quality between the bags I bought, with one having some very large pieces.

6. Eco-Straw Litter

This one I have not tried but have heard good things about it. These pellets are made from wheat straw and are said to absorb 300% of their weight in moisture. Dust free and heat treated to eliminate mites and other pests, this pellet from Oxbow Hay Company is completely biodegradable and can be composted or flushed down the toilet. Because it is made of natural fibres, it is also relatively safe if
ingested.

7. Cell-Sorb Plus

A pelleted paper based product that is absorbent and pretty good at odor control (though I didn't find it quite as good as some others at odor control). The pellets are quite bulky in appearance but are not as firmly compacted as some other pelleted beddings or litter and they tend to soften and crumble a bit over time, but dustiness was not a problem. As with other grey paper based products Cell Sorb Plus isn't very attractive, but it does the job and is inexpensive.

 

8. Critter Country

A pelleted product made from winter wheat and other plant fibers, heat treated to kill fungus, molds and insects. This pellet sounds much like Eco Straw and is touted as being absorbent, dust free, and odor controlling. It is also biodegradable and can be composted or flushed (in small quantities, of course).

9. Aspen Supreme Pelleted Pet Bedding

A pelleted aspen product, also touted for its absorbency and odor control. The pellets are quite compacted and firm. I found the product to have a scent, which was "woody" and not unpleasant but I didn't care it much and wondered how strong it must have felt to the rats. They were absorbent and effective, though. This litter is also biodegradable and can be composted or used for mulch.

 

10. Kaytee Total Comfort

This is a soft bedding choice made from reclaimed wood fibres, this bedding has a nice texture because it so soft. However, I found it quite dusty especially by the end of the bag, and the odor control was average. It is quite economical and nice and soft, though. It can also be composted or used as mulch.

 

Cages for Guinea Pigs

Size 
Guinea pigs, being social creatures, do best kept in groups of two or more, but most readily available commercial cages are not large enough to house a pair of pigs. The "old" guideline of 2 square feet per guinea pig is considered out-of-date and cramped by many owners. Cavycages.com recommends 7.5 square feet for a single guinea pig and 10.5 feet for a pair. Even at that, if you can provide a bigger cage, your guinea pigs will benefit from the extra space. In many cases, a home made cage provides ample space inexpensively and you can make quite creative cages easily. These are usually a better choice than a cramped commercial guinea pig cage (more on home made cage ideas below).

Cage Style
Cages with wire floors or wire ramps must be avoided, but otherwise guinea pigs are not too demanding in what sort of cage they need. Cages with ramps and low plastic shelves or ledges provide some added interest for the guinea pig, but be careful they do not take away needed floor space for running laps. The spacing between the bars can be up to one inch for adults. Some owners have come up with very creative solutions to the problem of providing large enough housing. The good thing about guinea pigs is that they are fairly large and not all that big on climbing or chewing, and are not likely to climb or jump over a wall that is reasonable height (18 inches should contain most pigs). " The photos illustrate how a little creativity can go a long way to providing great guinea pig enclosures, especially for groups of guinea pigs if you have enough room. The "Cubes and Coroplast" style of cage has become very popular. Stay away from most of the cages marketed for guinea pigs as they are terribly small. There are really only a few commercial cages that approach a good cage size for guinea pigs for a selection of larger cages you can purchase online.

Bedding
For bedding avoid cedar shavings and ideally pine as well. Aspen shavings are an acceptable choice, as is hay (a layer of paper underneath will help with absorbency). The newer recycled paper beddings are a good choice too, as are numerous other new types of pet-safe bedding and litter being made now. See "Top Ten Alternatives to Cedar Shavings" for more information.

Nest Box
A nest box or hiding place is a necessity - an overturned plastic tub or pail, or a cardboard box are fine (the cardboard box can just be discarded if soiled and replaced). Large diameter PVC pipes (with thick walls) make good tunnels and hides too.

Toys
Toys such should be added for interest. Paper bags make good toys/hides, and crumpled paper, cardboard boxes, balls, wood blocks, hard plastic cat and rabbit toys, fleece tunnels, small fleece blankets, willow rabbit toys, and hanging bird toys might also interest your guinea pigs. Just make sure there are no small parts that might come off or get chewed off and swallowed.

Wheels and exercise balls are not recommended; many experts believe that guinea pig bodies are not designed for this kind of exercise and the risk of injury is too great. Try to provide exercise using other means.

Food Dishes and Water Bottle
For a food bowl, a heavy ceramic bowl is a good choice. To keep a good supply of clean water, use a water bottle with a steel spout and ball, rather than a water bowl. Keep in mind that guinea pigs tend to drink a lot (and some "play" with the bottles) so keep an eye on their water supply throughout the day and replenish as necessary. A small hay hopper can be added to keep a supply of clean hay for the guinea pigs to nibble.

The cage will likely need to be cleaned weekly or more often.

about.com

Guinea pig breeds

Abyssinian

The Abyssinian breed of Guinea pig is known for its short and long, rough coat that has cowlicked rosettes of hair. The derivation of the breed's name is unknown, but does not connotate an origin in the geographical region of Abyssinia (present day Ethiopia). The ideal Abyssinian has 10 rosettes, one on each shoulder, four across the back, one on each of the animal's hips, and two on the rump. Some judging bodies, such as the ANCC, consider shoulder rosettes optional but desired in show cavies. A harsh-textured coat that stands on end to form ridges is desired.

Peruvian

The Peruvian is the progenitor of all modern long haired breeds, being a Guinea pig with hair that grows long continuously all over its body, sometimes to an excess of 20 inches (approx. 50 centimeters). Accordingly, this ornate feature can make caring for this breed more difficult for both owners and breeders; most show Peruvians have their hair folded up in wraps to protect it and keep it clean. Long haired Guinea pigs have both a top and an undercoat, the latter of which will generally only grow to 6-7 inches (15–17 cm.)Though most Peruvians kept as pets are regularly trimmed for ease of keeping, those in show coat should have hair that fans out to make the animal's front and rear completely indistinguishable. The coat should be of an even length all over, and have a central part on the spine. Peruvians of show standard are required to have two rosettes on either side of the rump, which creates the desired height and density.

Silkie or Sheltie

A Silkie has long hair that flows back over its body and never forward over the face (as in the Peruvian). When viewed from above it forms a teardrop shape and should never have a central part. In contrast to the Peruvian, where the coat is desired to fall in an even curtain all around the body, the Sheltie is generally accepted to have a somewhat longer sweep of hair in the rear.

                              
Short haired

The short coated cavy - often called the American or English- has consistently short, glossy hair without a part. This breed of cavy most resembles the Guinea pig's relatives and ancestors in the Cavia genus.

In shows, short-haired guinea pigs are shown by their color variety - self, dalmatian, Himalayan, etc. This designation does not have 'American' or 'English' appended to it, but applies only to short-haired animals.

Rex

A Rex guinea pig has short, fuzzy hair that stands on end all over the body. The hair should be uniform all over, without rosettes and no more than 1⁄2 inch (1 1⁄4 cm) in length, preferably shorter. The Rex breed sometimes looks similar to the Teddy, but the two breeds are genetically distinct—breeding a Rex to a Teddy will not result in Rex or Teddies, but rather American cavies.

Himalayan

The Himalayan guinea pig is similar to the Siamese cat in coat. It is solid white for the first few weeks of birth. Then the ears, face, paws, and feet grow darker with age. Similar to Siamese cats, Himalayans' coat darkens depending on the temperature. If a guinea pig lives in a house where the temperature is kept colder it will have darker points. If it is kept in a house where the temperature is warmer the points will be lighter and maybe even a medium brown. If kept outside the points' darkness would depend on the climate of the area. The darkest areas should be the face, paws, and the feet. Himalayans should have dark red eyes. These guinea pigs originate in southeast Asia, similar to the Birman, Burmese, Himalayan, and Siamese cat breeds.

Texel

A Texel Guinea pig is like a Silkie, but with curls. Originating from England, it was officially recognized as a breed by the ACBA in 1998.^[6] The curls should ideally be tightly wound corkscrew curls and should cover the entire body, including the stomach. Unlike a Sheltie, a central part is allowed.

Crested

The Crested is similar to the American, but has one rosette on the top of the head. According to ACBA standards, the Crest must be white, with no other white hair present on the animal.

The ANCC (Australian National Cavy Council) recognizes two main groups of crested but another group is also present, the White crested. The American Crested and the English Crested. The American Crested must have a crest colour that is in contrast to the body colour. Usually this is white, but it could be any other colour. These are only recognized in the self colour. English Cresteds have a crest the same colour as the body. These are recognized in every colour and variety, with the exclusion of the "coated" breeds (longhairs and coarse coats). The most popular being breeds such as the English Crested Pink Eyed White and the English Crested Black. The white crested has a white crest on the top of the forehead and a self colour everywhere else. White crested guinea pigs must have a white crest, with any coat that does not have white hairs present. So Dutch, roans, etc. are not included.
wikipedia.org

What does your Guinea Pig say?

Feeding your guinea pig

Vitamin C

Vitamin C is of utmost importance to guinea pigs, as they are unable to manufacture their own (much like humans). Without enough vitamin C in their diets, guinea pigs can become very ill with scurvy. The amount of vitamin C required varies somewhat depending on the reference source used, but most guinea pigs probably need about 10-30 mg/day. Pregnant, nursing, young and ill guinea pigs need more.

·         If you feed a good selection of vegetables high in vitamin C along with a good, fresh guinea pig pellet, you can probably meet the vitamin C needs of the average guinea pig.

·         Many guinea pig pellets have vitamin C added but unfortunately vitamin C is quite unstable and will degrade over time. Keeping the pellets in a cool dark place helps preserve the vitamin C. You can also get pellets with a stabilized form of vitamin C.

·         The best way to supplement with additional vitamin C is to use vitamin C tablets. You can buy vitamin C tablets specifically for guinea pigs (e.g.Oxbow's GTN-50C), or buy human chewable 100 mg tablets (note: make sure you are getting just vitamin C rather than a multivitamin formula). A quarter of a 100 mg tablet daily is a recommended dose for most adult guinea pigs. The guinea pig tablets are 50 mg, but since vitamin C is a water soluble vitamin, small excesses over that daily requirement are easily excreted. Many guinea pigs will take the tablets like a treat and eat them, or they can be crushed and sprinkled on vegetables or pellets.

·         Vitamin C can be added to the water, but there are problems with this method. The vitamin C quickly loses its potency in water (a fresh supply must be made at least daily, if not twice daily). Also, guinea pigs may refuse or reduce their consumption of water with added vitamin C due to the taste, and this may lead to other health problems. It is also very hard to know if your guinea pigs are getting enough vitamin C using this method of supplementation. Feeding a variety of fresh veggies high in vitamin C and/or supplementing directly with tablet forms of vitamin C are better options.

Pellets

Commercial guinea pig pellets should be fed daily. Most guinea pigs will not overeat (usually eat about 1/8 cup per day) but the amount of pellets may need to be restricted if a guinea pig becomes obese. Choose a good quality pellet designed guinea pigs. Since the vitamin C in pellets also loses its potency over time, look for pellets that use a stabilized form of vitamin C, or at least one with a "use before" date ensure freshness, and also buy in small quantities and store in a cool dark place.

For growing guinea pigs, alfalfa based pellets are fine, but for adults it may be better to search out a timothy hay based pellet. A couple of excellent timothy based diets includeOxbow Hay's Cavy Cuisine, and KM Hayloft's Timothy's Choice.

When choosing a guinea pig diet or pellet, avoid those with nuts or seeds, dried fruits, corn products, animal by-products, or beet pulp or other fillers. Also watch for high sugar content (sucrose, fructose, corn syrup, etc) and foods with lots of preservative or added chemicals. The Guinea Lynx site has a great article on selecting good quality pellets.

Hay

Hay should be a staple in the diet, and a fresh supply available at all times. Grass hays such as timothy hay or orchard grass are the best for adult guinea pigs. Alfalfa is richer and higher in calcium and is a good supplement for growing guinea pigs as well as pregnant or nursing guinea pigs, but is not a good staple for most adult guinea pigs.

Fresh Vegetables and Fruit

In addition to the hay and pellets, a variety of fresh vegetables (especially leafy greens) and some fruits should be offered daily. Leafy greens should make up the bulk of the vegetable supplementation, and fruits and other vegetable can be offered in small quantities. Avoid iceberg (head lettuce) as it has very little nutritional value. Good choices include kale, spinach, turnip greens, parsley, romaine lettuce, and dandelion greens. Avoid or limit cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, collards, bok choy and other cruciferous vegetables as they can lead to gas production in the digestive tract. Also avoid starchy vegetables like potatoes. Carrots, carrot tops, green and red bell peppers, apple, apricots, bananas, blueberries, cantaloupe, grapes, oranges, strawberries, and tomatoes can also be fed. If you have a guaranteed pesticide-free source, grass, dandelions, clover, and chickweed can also be offered, especially new growth which is tender and the most nutritious.

Any greens, vegetables or fruits should be introduced gradually or a digestive upset may result.

How to pick a guinea pig

Before You Decide on Guinea Pigs

·         Guinea pigs are social animals, and you should consider keeping a same sex pair so they have company. A pair of females is a good choice; a pair of males may be fine but may fight.

·         They are a long-term commitment, with an expected life span of around 5-7 years, although up to 10 isn't unusual.

·         They need a large cage (but fortunately it is easy to meet their needs with a home made cage).

·         While usually quiet they can call out quite loudly, and can be active both day and night.

·         They may be nervous at first but rarely bite and generally become very tame with frequent handling.

·         Usually good family pets (but make sure children handle them gently).

Finding a Guinea Pig

·         Pet stores: only if the store/staff are knowledgeable about guinea pigs, keep them in appropriate, clean housing with a good diet, and handle the guinea pigs regularly. Look for stores that house males and females separately, to avoid a surprise litter.

·         Breeders (caviary): best option if looking for a show quality pig or a specific type, but also good for finding pet quality pigs. A good breeder will make sure the babies are socialized well and handled from an early age.

·         Shelters: guinea pigs often end up in shelters or rescues and this is a great place to give a guinea pig a second chance at life. Guinea pigs from shelters might be a little more skittish at first if they were not handled much when young, but most will settle down in their new homes once a routine is established.

·         Whichever source is chosen, make sure the guinea pig appears in good health and condition, and is well socialized and easy to handle.

Choosing a Guinea Pig

·         Try to avoid guinea pigs that are panicky when handled, especially if they do not relax quickly, and also those that are overly quiet and calm (may be ill).

·         The guinea pig should be alert and active.

·         Avoid guinea pigs that are overly skinny or grossly overweight. The body should be firm and rounded.

·         The nose, eyes, ears, and rear end should be clean and free from discharge.

·         The coat should be full and soft.

·         Check the skin for flakes or redness, and be on the lookout for any signs of parasites such as lice.

How to tame a guinea pig

Guinea pigs can make lovely, tame pets with just a bit of time and kindness. They all have different personalities though, and whilst many piggies can be tamed to the point that they will come running over to see you when you approach, some will always prefer to sit somewhere safe. A guinea pig in the wild makes a good, hearty meal for a number of predators and as such an instinct to be scared of sudden movement and strange environments is a good survival instinct. Remember if you loom over your piggie, his instinct will tell him that an eagle is attacking and if you crash around nearby it could be a predator jumping through the undergrowth.

There are two main factors in taming any small animal. The first is not doing anything unpleasant to them when they are being brave and secont is nice food.I use  nice fresh grass. When you first get your guinea pigs it is best to leave them alone as much as possible for the first couple of days. It is very tempting to keep picking them up and showing them to people but this is very stressful for them when they are in a new environment so please resist this until they have settled in. Make sure that each guinea pig has a nice house to hide in. Otherwise when they are startled the more dominant piggie will kick the other one out of the box and this can cause fights particularly amongst males. If possible don't disturb your pet when he is in his box as this will make them feel more secure. It is sometimes necessary to catch them by tipping over the box but do this as little as possible in the early days

Feed your guinea pigs at the same time every day. They will soon learn to assoicate the sounds of feeding with something nice happening. Ours squeak when they hear rustling and/or the frige opening. Also have times a couple of times a day when you give them treats.
Once you have a guinea pig feeding from your hand it is often quite a quick process to get them to come further and further out of the box and eventually come to the edge of the cage to be fed. Before long your guinea pig will be standing ready for a treat. It is absolutely essential that you don't use a treat to catch the guinea pig at this point as it will stop them trusting you. Once they get to trust you really well you will be able to pick them up.

If you are interested in psycology this process is called shaping. It involves rewarding your pet when he does each small step towards what you want him to do. Or in technical speak "produces novel behaviour by reinforcing closer and closer approximations to the desired response"(Westen 2002). It also works for other animals, students, children and alledgedly husbands. Some piggies learn in a matter of days, the majority in a couple of weeks but a small minority may take a lot longer. There isn't a guinea pig out there that you can't get tamer in this way.

Guinea pigs are pets that you can sit on your lap and stroke but it can take a while for them to get used to it. A very frightened guinea pig will sit very still and even quiver. When they are a little less nervous they make a purring noise to indicate that they are unhappy - people often mistake this for the purring cats make when they are happy but it actually means the opposite.
When you first handle your guinea pig do so in a quiet room without a lot going on around. Turn off the TV and don't have the washing machine or hoover in the background. Sit them quietly and see if you can get them to eat their favorite treat - it can take a little while for them to feel safe enough to eat but if you are patient they will get happier about being handled. Make sure you always pick them up with their back end supported and don't walk around with them to start off with as the height makes them nervous
Psycology Reference Westen, Drew (2002) Psycology p180 John Wiley and Sons